5分钟搞定100%正确的产品工艺单

骑猪看日落 2023-07-04 04:37 4阅读 0赞

# 5分钟搞定100%正确的产品工艺单 #

产品工艺单：

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-4e0bd1ea1d8d2437ecfaefbe929ed9d4\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-4e0bd1ea1d8d2437ecfaefbe929ed9d4_hd.jpg]

所需要的工具：

剪刀、打火机、分析针、尺子、水笔。

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-a96d224214b0bfabb005389f9a855499\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-a96d224214b0bfabb005389f9a855499_hd.jpg]

检测步骤：

1.  正反面鉴别
2.  经纬向鉴别
3.  测经纬纱的密度
4.  织物组织分析
5.  原料的鉴别
6.  织造缩率（根据具体情况而定）
7.  经纬纱规格的分析
8.  捻度和捻向
9.  克重

附：经重的计算公式等。

举例：以下面这块布为例，无弹。

![https://pic4.zhimg.com/80/v2-8707820f17236522e99cd16b285ba027\_hd.jpg][https_pic4.zhimg.com_80_v2-8707820f17236522e99cd16b285ba027_hd.jpg]

首先我们可以从客户那得知的数据有成品门幅。

成品门幅：57/58’（这里的57/58是英寸，1英寸＝2.54厘米）成品门幅市场上一般为57/58’。

![https://pic4.zhimg.com/80/v2-398688fef0fdc244f761599dfccf1c13\_hd.jpg][https_pic4.zhimg.com_80_v2-398688fef0fdc244f761599dfccf1c13_hd.jpg]

## 1. 正反面鉴别 ##

鉴别标准：正面光滑细致，纹路清晰。

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-d5a29fcdbc149e2e6ce4486f3a6a25b4\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-d5a29fcdbc149e2e6ce4486f3a6a25b4_hd.jpg]

## 2. 经纬向辨别 ##

辨别方法：一般情况下，经密大于纬密，密度大的是经向。如果有布边，与布边平行的纱线是经纱。

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-06020c640cccf54d2cdea33a123dea68\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-06020c640cccf54d2cdea33a123dea68_hd.jpg]

## 3. 检测经、纬纱密度 ##

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-4fa5ec25a0367143648eb313c440fae1\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-4fa5ec25a0367143648eb313c440fae1_hd.jpg]

![https://pic3.zhimg.com/80/v2-1f062a3c2c97e13b15646af4031d291e\_hd.jpg][https_pic3.zhimg.com_80_v2-1f062a3c2c97e13b15646af4031d291e_hd.jpg]

在样布上量的1厘米的长度，将经、纬纱逐一拆出，并数清根数，就可以得到经、纬密度。

![https://pic4.zhimg.com/80/v2-cef56216c701f44abb391e2a6b93b467\_hd.jpg][https_pic4.zhimg.com_80_v2-cef56216c701f44abb391e2a6b93b467_hd.jpg]

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-f3fc155073fdb3fe23dc424e6cceae34\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-f3fc155073fdb3fe23dc424e6cceae34_hd.jpg]

因为一般情况下经密大于纬密。所以，这根纱线的密度是60×44。

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-47c0d5a6d0c730ade63aa889bb536b08\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-47c0d5a6d0c730ade63aa889bb536b08_hd.jpg]

## 4. 织物组织分析 ##

1.  将样品的经纬丝沿边拆去一厘米左右，以形成丝缨。
2.  用针拨第一根经丝（或纬丝），在纬丝的丝缨中，观察第一根经丝（或纬丝）与数根纬丝（或经丝）的浮沉规律。至少两个循环为止，并把这一规律记录在方格纸上然后抽掉已拔出的经丝（或纬丝）。
3.  拔出第二根经丝。用与上述相同的方法，记录第二根四线的沉浮规律，这样一直到出现循环为止。
4.  画出组织图，经线在上画×。

![https://pic3.zhimg.com/80/v2-22828257f34a440fb334f6650bd36e8a\_hd.jpg][https_pic3.zhimg.com_80_v2-22828257f34a440fb334f6650bd36e8a_hd.jpg]

![https://pic3.zhimg.com/80/v2-87febdff34fab3ae5eb9a4331146f65e\_hd.jpg][https_pic3.zhimg.com_80_v2-87febdff34fab3ae5eb9a4331146f65e_hd.jpg]

## 5. 原料的鉴别 ##

1.  取经线或纬线（样布经纬纱线一样）；
2.  放在火上烧一烧；
3.  冒黑烟，闻起来有烧塑料的味道；（拓展：粘胶和棉烧起来有烧纸的味道，粘胶的面料手感比棉的要滑，棉的面料手感比较硬朗。涤棉、涤粘烧着后熄灭还会有火星）。
4.  得出结论，样布的原料是涤纶。

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-b8375f445fb310882e6c89aa83842688\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-b8375f445fb310882e6c89aa83842688_hd.jpg]

## 6. 织造缩率 ##

与染整缩率相比，织造缩率可以忽略不计。

## 7. 经、纬纱规格的分析 ##

旦尼尔的计算：

先数出10根5cm的纱线，称出这10根纱线（50cm）的重量为0.0167g；

50cm×2=100cm=1m

1m纱线的重量即为0.0167g

0.0167g×9000m=150D

PS：长丝用旦尼尔（D）表示，短纤维用英制支数（S）来表示。

D×S＝5315

取一根纱线，有捻度的话需要退捻，退捻后，数出其中的细小纤维有多少根，就是多少F。

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-31a044e859bc41414b608eaa1ac3fc8d\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-31a044e859bc41414b608eaa1ac3fc8d_hd.jpg]

样布数出来是288根，所以就是288F。

![https://pic4.zhimg.com/80/v2-749d47f2623f6f068a666f8d0f7c151b\_hd.jpg][https_pic4.zhimg.com_80_v2-749d47f2623f6f068a666f8d0f7c151b_hd.jpg]

## 8. 捻度和捻向 ##

在单位长度的纱中，纤维所捻成的回旋数叫做捻度，纱的强度主要由捻度决定，一般捻度大强度也大。

![https://pic4.zhimg.com/80/v2-aecb556463248652f0d2b9cf5d29f87b\_hd.jpg][https_pic4.zhimg.com_80_v2-aecb556463248652f0d2b9cf5d29f87b_hd.jpg]

左手捏紧纱线的一端，右手旋转另一端，顺时针旋转，如果纱线退捻，则为Z捻。

左手捏紧纱线的一端，右手旋转另一端，逆时针旋转，如果纱线退捻，则为S捻。

![https://pic4.zhimg.com/80/v2-cdf0ac6b41a016784da56d486fd02717\_hd.jpg][https_pic4.zhimg.com_80_v2-cdf0ac6b41a016784da56d486fd02717_hd.jpg]

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-9ed01f23ff9d2d294fbec4f88b3160ed\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-9ed01f23ff9d2d294fbec4f88b3160ed_hd.jpg]

PS：总经＝成品经密×成品门幅

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-45818e539c5e2388e2707301b20c4168\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-45818e539c5e2388e2707301b20c4168_hd.jpg]

上机纬密：

无弹的情况下，上机纬密＝成品纬密×0.85；

0.85是染色缩率，染色后面料缩了15%。

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-45818e539c5e2388e2707301b20c4168\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-45818e539c5e2388e2707301b20c4168_hd.jpg]

上机门幅：

无弹的情况下，上机门幅＝170~175cm

![https://pic3.zhimg.com/80/v2-f01b4d6af3a83ce2a050e59f1aa819be\_hd.jpg][https_pic3.zhimg.com_80_v2-f01b4d6af3a83ce2a050e59f1aa819be_hd.jpg]

## 9. 克重 ##

克重就是指每平方米面料的重量有多少克。

1. 把样布剪成正方形，并且算出面积（㎡）

3cm×3cm＝9cm²

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-d980524654b301b5d4d9f63d195017c9\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-d980524654b301b5d4d9f63d195017c9_hd.jpg]

2. 称出正方形面料的重量（G）

![https://pic3.zhimg.com/80/v2-8b7805f4432ebc80cd3cf33a1e564ef2\_hd.jpg][https_pic3.zhimg.com_80_v2-8b7805f4432ebc80cd3cf33a1e564ef2_hd.jpg]

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-ca8ad5062b0475deae3f5447535e4128\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-ca8ad5062b0475deae3f5447535e4128_hd.jpg]

3、重量除以面积就是克重

0.1853g÷9cm²＝0.0206g/cm²＝206g/m²

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-fd24e6ddbbe26112338a49d7a6241dd1\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-fd24e6ddbbe26112338a49d7a6241dd1_hd.jpg]

每米的经重计算公式：

（总经/9000）\*经纱旦尼尔（含氨纶）\*1.1（织缩率）=经重

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-ee8722ba4f8d6079fdd90dbe00bb3474\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-ee8722ba4f8d6079fdd90dbe00bb3474_hd.jpg]

每米的纬重计算公式：

（上机门幅\*上机纬密/9000）\*纬纱旦尼尔（含氨纶）\*1.03=纬重

![https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-fe29c67997e5921e5076121086e90cd5\_hd.jpg][https_pic2.zhimg.com_80_v2-fe29c67997e5921e5076121086e90cd5_hd.jpg]

每米白坯重量＝经重＋纬重

![https://pic1.zhimg.com/80/v2-9edae59856acbb48ea936b9947a90ec8\_hd.jpg][https_pic1.zhimg.com_80_v2-9edae59856acbb48ea936b9947a90ec8_hd.jpg]

这样，我们的产品工艺单就填写完成了。

PS：关于经排列和纬排列

单色的纱线没有经排列和纬排列，不需要填写（样布就是单色纱线）。当我们分析的面料是色纱的时候，如果按照3黑3白排列，则填写3A＋3B，纬纱也是同样的道理。

【转载】[https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/100798587][https_zhuanlan.zhihu.com_p_100798587]

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[https_zhuanlan.zhihu.com_p_100798587]: https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/100798587